Majestic, humbling, exciting: experiencing the Fuengirola Virgen del Carmen procession in Los Boliches.
Every summer, Spanish coastal towns come alive with the Virgen del Carmen festival. Today, I’m excited to share the profound beauty of this event in Fuengirola’s old fishing district, Los Boliches. It’s my personal favourite of all the local traditions here.
Read to the end to watch a video of the event.
What is Virgen del Carmen?
In Spain, Virgen del Carmen is the patron saint of sailors, fishermen and also the Spanish Navy. Every year on 16th July, our coastal towns, including Fuengirola, honour her with moving processions and festivities.
Known in English as Our Lady of Mount Carmel, this is a special title given to the Virgin Mary by the Carmelite Order. The reverence for her stretches back to the Old Testament, where prophets saw Mount Carmel in Israel as sacred.
Two processions: Fuengirola or Los Boliches?
Typically, in Fuengirola, there are two processions. One takes place in the centre of town, usually leaving from the Nuestra Señora del Carmen Church on Plaza España around 7 pm. The second one starts approximately two hours later in the town’s eastern seafront district, from the Los Boliches Church.
The choice can be a dilemma, but on this occasion, I attended the Los Boliches procession because it’s closer to where I live. However, I’ve heard the Fuengirola procession is equally beautiful. If you’re nearer to the “castle end” of Fuengirola, consider catching that one instead.
(In fact, the Malaga provincial authority has recognised both the Los Boliches and Fuengirola processions as “unique festivals of tourist interest”.)
“The devotion to Virgen del Carmen in Los Boliches spans over a hundred years. The first church dedicated to the Virgin was built here in 1865.”
A century-old tradition in Los Boliches
The devotion to Virgen del Carmen in Los Boliches spans over a hundred years. The first church dedicated to the Virgin was built here in 1865. At that time, Los Boliches was a humble fishing neighbourhood, characterised by simple, whitewashed homes.
The district’s strong sense of community, which revolved around the catch and the tides, has helped it to maintain its distinct identity, even as the larger Fuengirola area has grown around it.
Procession on land and in water
The Los Boliches Virgen del Carmen procession takes place both on land and in water. Initially, the Virgin is paraded through the streets. Then she is carried through water amidst a backdrop of fireworks, before she is returned to the Los Boliches church.
Part 1: Street procession
The first part of the procession begins around 9 pm with the ceremonial carrying of the Virgin’s effigy through the streets. From the Los Boliches Church, it heads east on Avenida Los Boliches. Then it continues around Plaza Pedro Cuevas and finally down the Paseo Marítimo towards Los Boliches Beach.
Draped in beautiful floral arrangements, the illuminated golden throne bearing the Virgin is accompanied by a solemn ceremonial marching band. I get goosebumps when I see the Virgin high up on the shoulders of the sailors who bear the throne. There are spontaneous bursts of applause as the crowd calls out, “¡Viva!“—”Long live the Virgin”!
Part 2: Carrying the Virgin into the water
As the procession slowly advances along the Paseo Marítimo, the sun dips below the horizon. The air fills with the scent of the sea and the atmosphere thickens with anticipation.
Boats and fishing vessels are lined up in the sea, a few hundred metres out, waiting by to pay tribute to their Patron. It’s getting dark now, so all we can see are their lights and faint outlines.
There are people standing waist-deep in the sea, ready to greet the Virgin. I’m getting a bit chilly standing on the beach and wish I’d brought a pashmina, yet the people in the water have been waiting for a good while. I admire their devotion; it’s July in Spain, but the Mediterranean is not warm.
A sacred tribute
Finally, at about 11 pm, we hear the drum beats of the procession coming down the beach, and I see the Virgin lit up, lifted high above the crowd.
In some coastal towns, the Virgin is mounted on a boat in the water. But at the Los Boliches beach, the water is shallow enough for the throne bearers to wade in, carrying the Virgin on their shoulders. As they enter the water, the crowd breaks out in a cheer. And right at that moment, a magnificent fireworks display lights up the sky.
There is something both majestic and humbling about the ceremonial immersion of the Virgin into the sea. If you watch the above video until the end, you’ll see the moment when the throne bearers lift the Virgin into the air, marked by collective cheers. For me, it remains the most powerful image of the night.
Night skies ablaze: the fireworks display
As the Virgin takes to the sea, the sky above Fuengirola’s port bursts into colour with a fireworks display. The people on the beach and in the water clap and cheer. This feels like more than just a religious tradition: it’s a celebration of life, community and heritage.
Join the celebration
For those of you who have never witnessed the Virgen del Carmen procession in Los Boliches, Fuengirola, I highly recommend experiencing it at least once. The blend of tradition, celebration and community is something that words can only begin to describe.
Planning your visit
- Los Boliches procession: Held on 16th July each year. Last time, the procession started from the Los Boliches Church at around 8.45 pm and made its way to Los Boliches Beach.
- Fuengirola procession: Also on 16th July, starting from the Nuestra Señora del Carmen Church at around 7pm and proceeding to Fuengirola Beach.
- Check for annual updates: For the most current English-language information and any possible changes to the route or times, check the Sur in English newspaper.
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